BMW X1 valve train (tappet) noise

C.A.R.S (caringbah Auto Repairs & Service)

We recently repaired a 2007 BMW X1 in the workshop with a broken retaining spring in the ‘ valvetronic’ variable valve lift system. The vehicle had a definite tappet noise and  was lacking power.

IMG_2819The problem was easily diagnosed and the replacement part was inexpensive though fitting the new part was quite a specialised operation.

To replace one of these retaining springs or to perform any work on the valve train system you need some specialised tools.

C.A.R.S BMW tools

broken valvetronic retaining spring

broken valvetronic retaining spring

 

 

 

 

 

 

The set on left is to align the camshafts and crankshaft. The set on the right is to secure and support the valvetronic assembly when removing it from the cylinder head and the device at the front is to compress the springs for removal/installation.

After removing the rocker cover and  camshaft sprockets, the inlet camshaft must be secured to the valvetronic assembly. then the entire unit is removed from the cylinder head.IMG_2830

Then the spring can be safely removed and replaced.

IMG_2829Once this is done the unit is refitted to the cylinder head and using the aligning tools the camshaft sprockets and timing chain can be fitted and secured, since there are no keyways for the camshaft or crankshaft sprockets the use of the aligning tools are essential.

 

IMG_2835IMG_2821after the rest of the associated components are replaced and the engine is started, because the PCM(Powertrain Control Module) is constantly learning and adjusting to allow for wear etc. the settings for the valvetronic system in the PCM  have to be reset.

 

 

 

 

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

CARS Christmas 2014From all of us here at Caringbah Auto Repairs & Service we would like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy and safe  New Year.

The Spirit of Ecstasy, also called “Emily”, “Silver Lady” or “Flying Lady”, was designed by English sculptor Charles Robinson Sykes and carries with it a story about a secret passion between John Walter Edward Douglas-Scott-Montagu, (second Baron Montagu of Beaulieu after 1905, a pioneer of the automobile movement, and editor of The Car Illustrated magazine from 1902) and the model for the emblem, Eleanor Velasco Thornton.

P.S if you are heading away this Christmas holiday then dont forget to check out one of our previous blogs “Holiday Check list”

Lamborghini clutch & brake problems

Lamborghini @ Caringbah auto repairs Recently at Caringbah Auto Repairs & Service C.A.R.S we had a Lamborghini Diablo with two problems, The first being the pushrod coming out of the clutch slave cylinder was  broken and the second the rear brakes were not operating.

The early Diablo’s suffered from an exessively heavy clutch pedal, to rectify this Lamborghini added a larger bore slave cylinder in later models, unfortunatly to fit the larger slave they had to relocate it and add an awkward looking conecting rod with a couple of bends in it to clear the slave cylinder.

Because of the high forces that would usualy be transfered through a perfictaly straight rod some week points are created, one where the bent rod thins out at the threaded section and another where the straight threaded rod conects to the bent one.

Fortunately this one had only broken the straight rod and we soon fabricated a new one out of a high tensile cylinder head bolt.

New & broken pushrod

New & broken pushrod

Here you can see the conecting rod with the broken pushrod and the new one that we made. And below is the whole assembly fitted back in the vehicle. Note how the relocated slave cylinder is behind the clutch arm and because the hydraulic slave cannot pull it needs the conecting rod to allow it to activate the clutch in its original direction.

 

258 261

 

 

 

 

The next problem was the brakes, after a quick inspection we fount that only the front brakes were operating which being a dual system we traced back to the master cylinder not suplying any hydraulic pressure to the rear circit which in a car such as this with most of the weight over the rear wheels could  be verry dangerous.

After removing the brake master cylinder we found that the secondary piston was seized.

Master cylinder

Brake master cylinder

This is a comon problem with exotic, clasic and custom cars that are not regularly used, a lot of people think that because they are not using there car that it is not deteriorating or wearing out, especialy the brakes, but one of the most neglected aerias is the braking system. Brake fluid is ‘HYGROSCOPIC’ this means that it absorbes water and over time the brake fluid will absorb water from the air and begin to rust the internal metal parts of the brake system and especialy if not used any moving parts can seize up.So the master cylinder was overhauled and replaced back in the vehicle and the entire braking system was flushed and replaced with new dot4 brake fluid.

Fixed price servicing

C.A.R.S fixed price servicinigThere are a lot of car manufacturers and big name service centers offering Fixed price servicing these days, so we at C.A.R.S have had a close look into what these fixed price services actualy include. What we have found is they are basicaly what we call a minor service which is engine oil and oil filter change and general inspection of the vehicle, any other maintenance like spark plugs, fuel filters, brake pads transmission fluids, etc…. are charged as an extra. Manufacturers can offerthis service more redily these days because service items in modern cars have longer life spans for example fuel filters 60-80k, spark plugs 100-150k and some transmissions and differential oils are filled for life (which means the service life of the vehicle, usualy around 200k). So with this in mind we can say that at Caringbah Auto Repairs & Service We (and most other mechanics) offer fixed price servicing and always have, because we can tell you up front exactly how much your particular vehicles service will cost and whats more we will let you know before hand how much any aditional work will cost, thats something you dont always receive from delaerships you just find out when you pick up your vehicle.

 

So before you decide on purchasing a particular car just because the manufacturer is offering Fixed price servicing remember that It probably wont make any differance.

Holiday Check list

Before you head out on the road this Holiday Season here are a few tips and things to check before you go, to avoid turning your holiday into disaster!

Create a safe environment
When packing the car for holiday especially if you have kids there can be a lot of stuff to fit in, so remember to try and secure any loose items inside the car which may cause you or any passengers harm if you have to brake heavily or if you are unfortunately involved in an accident, as any unsecured item inside the car can become an extremely dangerous missile.

See and be seen
You also want to check all your lights, horn, windscreen wipers and washers are in good working order, clean your windows and mirrors inside and out. Good visibility is an essential part of keeping safe on the road.
Wiper

 

 

 

 

 

Arrive safley
There are many things that work together in a vehicle to keep it running and all of these things require regular checking and maintenance which is done every time you have your car serviced by your mechanic, most of them shouldn’t give you any trouble in-between regular services but there are some items you should check before any long trip.

1. Tyres and tyre pressures – your tyres are the only thing connecting your car to the road so you want to make sure they perform how they should, there should be at least 1.6mm of tread which is indicated by the wear indicators located in the grooves of every tyre, if your tyres are on or near these markings their ability to disperse water is greatly reduced and they should be replaced. The pressure in your tyres also affects their performance to little pressure and they sag causing the edges to roll over and the centre of the tread to lift putting extra stress on the tyre side wall generating more friction and heat and reducing the grip on the road, to much pressure and the tyre will balloon causing the centre of the tread to bulge out reducing the amount of contact with the road reducing grip. Most vehicles have a tyre placard inside the door, fuel flap or glove box which will tell you the manufactures recommendations read it carefully as the load you are carrying effects the amount of pressure you need in your tyres.
tread wear indicator

 

 

 

 

 

2. Engine oil – The oil in your cars engine is extremely important it has lots of jobs to do, it lubricates all the moving parts in the engine, cools the valve gear and piston skirts, cleans the cylinders and removes foreign material inside the crank case. This is why it requires replacing every now and then, at C.A.R.S (Caringbah Automotive Repairs & Service) we recommend every 10,000km or six months. If the oil hasn’t been changed for a while remember old oil is better than no oil! So you need to check the oil level, this is done by placing the vehicle on level ground accessing the engine bay and looking for the dip stick, let the engine sit for a few minutes to allow the oil to drain back into the sump then remove the dip stick wipe off the oil  with a cloth or rag then re-insert it and pull it out again, look to see where the oil is on the stick there should be two marks near the end, one indicating the low or minimum level and the other indicating high or the maximum level, the oil level should be between these marks if it is below the minimum then you need to add the recommended grade oil to the engine via the filling point at the top of the engine. It will usually take about one litre to move the level from the low mark to the high mark, my tip is to add slowly checking regularly as you fill. If it is to high (more than 10mm above the max) then some oil needs to be drained out.

Dip stick

 

 

 

 

3. Engine coolant –  Engine coolant also has a variety of jobs to perform, not only does it cool the engine it lubricates the water pump, prevents corrosion in the engine, raises the boiling point and lowers the freezing point of the water. The cooling system is the second most important thing to check after the engine oil, without sufficient cooling your engine will sustain serious damage in a very short period of time. Most modern engines run at very high temperatures to increase performance and fuel economy and a large amount of  the components are made of light weight alloys, so they can overheat very quickly. Different manufacturers have different designs of cooling systems, some vehicles may have a pressurised cap on the radiator and an ‘overflow reservoir’ somewhere in the engine bay, or some have a sealed radiator with a pressurised reservoir in the engine bay and some have a radiator with or without a cap and a pressurised cap on the engine and an overflow reservoir in the engine bay. With all these systems you should first let the engine cool down before you open any cap or lid. If there is a cap on the radiator you should remove it and check that it is full to the top with coolant, if so replace the cap if not top it up then look for the overflow reservoir there should be some markings on it or a dip stick with min and max the coolant should be between these marks just like the engine oil. if there is a sealed radiator with a pressurised reservoir there is usually markings on the reservoir with min and max check the coolant is between these marks. if it is the last type with one or two caps and an overflow one of the caps will be higher than the other usually the one on the engine you should remove this one and check that it is full to the top with coolant then same as the first one look for the overflow reservoir and check the level in it. If you need to top up your cooling system and you think it will only take a small amount around 750ml or less then it should be safe to just add plain water, any more than that say one or two liters either get it checked by a mechanic or fill it with the correct premixed coolant for your vehicle, if it takes more than a couple of litres then there is a leak somewhere that requires attention.

 

Radiator cap cooling system

 

 

 

 

 

If  all of these thing are ok then you should have a hassle free journey, If you are in doubt of any of these things take your car to your local mechanic where they will be happy to check them for you.

 

 

Headlight Restoration

After restoration

After restoration

Before Restoration

Before Restoration

Are your cars polycarbonate/plastic headlight lenses becoming dull, hasing or yellowing? This is caused by UV light and other damaging debry from the enviroment Oxidising the lens. Although you may think they are beyond repair at Caringbah Auto Repairs & Service we can restore them to as new condition again and its not as expensive as you might think. The whole proces can be done in a few hours and will only cost you around $80 for two standard headlights.

Common Rail Diesel Issues

CRD intake blocked There is an issue with alot of  the new diesel cars usualy fitted with common rail diesel injection. To comply with emission regulations most have an Exaust gass recirculation system (EGR) this directs some of the exaust gasses back into the intake, where the lower oxygen exaust gass lowers combustion temperature, reducing the emissions of NOx, which is good for the environment but unfortunatly the normally “dry” intake system of a diesel engine is now subject to fouling from soot which gets trapped by unburned fuel and oil in the relitively cool environment in the intake manifold, which in time will effect airflow and cause problems with components such as swirl flaps. Diesel EGR also increases soot production, which can cause premature blocking of Diesel  Particulat Filters (DPF’s).

What we at C.A.R.S have done to combat this problem is that at every service all diesel cars whose engine is fitted with an EGR system, Recomend that we perform an upper engine and intake system clean which we do by applying a special chemical directaly to the intake system while the engine is running, carefully removing unwanted deposits from the intake system. If this is done at every service then you should avoid costly engine repairs.

Holden Astra Timing Belt Issue

Astra timing belt

 

 

 

 

 

 

We have found the holden TS (1998 – 2005) 1.8l astra to have a few mechanical and electrical issues one being timing belt failure, when first released the manufactures recomendation was to change the belt at 120,000km but then changed this to 60,000km when it was discoverd that some belts were failing at 80.000km or less,  the main reason seems to be either water pump or tensioner pulley failure which then causes the timing belt to fail. When this occurs the pistons keep moving but the valves stop and any in the open position are struk by the moving piston and bent, resulting in a costly repair bill as the cylinder head has to be removed and repaired.

To avoid this it is recomended to replace the timing belt, water pump, tensioner and idler pullies and all associated oil seals every 60,000km